The Domus Aurea in Rome

Built for Nero after the great fire that ravaged Rome in 64 AD, the Domus Aurea (Golden House) was an immense, extravagant palace sprawling over several dozen hectares—a true testament to Nero’s megalomania!

Forgotten for centuries before being rediscovered, the Domus Aurea now invites visitors to dive into the heart of 1^st-century Rome. It’s an exceptional experience!

⚠️ Due to limited capacity, you must book your visit to the Domus Aurea in advance. You can reserve your tickets here: Tickets for the Domus Aurea.

A Brief History of the Domus Aurea

Origins of the Domus Aurea

In 64 AD, a massive fire destroyed much of Rome. This presented an opportunity for Emperor Nero, who seized the space cleared by the disaster to build a sumptuous palace. Some suggest Nero may have even started the fire himself to clear out other buildings—though this remains speculative.

Regardless, Nero ordered the construction of a vast palace complex stretching over several dozen hectares between the Palatine and Esquiline Hills. Architects Severus and Celer were in charge of the construction, while the famous painter Fabullus handled the frescoes inside the palace. The palace’s name, Domus Aurea, or Golden House, comes from its golden stuccoes and decorations.

The monumental complex included apartments and reception rooms, as well as baths, an artificial lake, extensive gardens, vineyards, pastures, and wooded areas!

Interestingly, the Domus Aurea lacked kitchens and latrines, indicating that it was a ceremonial palace designed for entertainment rather than residence. In short, this monumental complex was apparently never intended to be inhabited!

The Avant-Garde Golden House

The Domus Aurea is legendary not only for its monumental size but also for its futuristic (by ancient standards) design.

Archaeologists have discovered numerous innovations within the palace:

• Many vaults and domes, which were rare in the 1^st century AD
• The “Cenatio rotunda,” a tower with a rotating floor—powered by hydraulic force—to mimic the movement of the world
• Countless wall frescoes, some in trompe-l’œil
• Vertical mosaics, whereas mosaics were typically only found on floors before the 1^st century AD

The Disappearance of the Domus Aurea

In 68 AD, Nero committed suicide less than four years after the construction of his Golden House began. His successor, Otho, ensured the completion of the project.

However, the people of Rome resented the restricted access to the vast area monopolized by the Domus Aurea. Over time, Roman emperors reclaimed the space and opened it to the public. Vespasian built the Flavian Amphitheatre (later known as the Colosseum) on the site of the drained artificial lake, and Trajan filled in parts of the Domus Aurea to construct baths.

The Domus Aurea was buried beneath new constructions and gradually forgotten…

The Rediscovery of Nero’s Golden House

In the 15^th century, a young Roman fell through a hole and landed in what appeared to be a cave with fresco-covered walls. The Domus Aurea had awakened from its long slumber!

Artists from that era—and subsequent centuries—flocked to this strange cave to admire the paintings on its walls, including Raphael and Michelangelo, and later, the likes of the Marquis de Sade and Giacomo Casanova.

Nero’s Golden House inspired 15^th and 16^th-century artists, giving rise to a new pictorial style: “grotesque” (from the Italian “grotta,” meaning cave).

The Domus Aurea Today

For several decades, the Domus Aurea has been undergoing extensive excavation and restoration.

In 1999, Nero’s Golden House opened to the public but had to close in 2005 due to damage caused by visitors. It reopened in 2014.

Visiting the Domus Aurea

Due to ongoing excavations, the Domus Aurea is only open to the public on Fridays and Saturdays. The site is at risk of collapse, so guided tours are mandatory, and visitors must wear helmets (provided on-site).

The tour is absolutely fascinating: the guides are archaeologists who work on the site during the week. Since 2017, virtual reality glasses have allowed visitors to see what Nero’s palace looked like at its peak!

⚠️ To visit the Domus Aurea, you must book your ticket in advance. You can reserve your tickets here.

Is the Domus Aurea a Must-Visit in Rome?

While it rarely tops lists of must-see sites in Rome, the Domus Aurea is a truly fascinating visit that Captain Ulysses highly recommends—unless your stay in Rome is very brief.

Practical Information

Getting to the Domus Aurea

The Golden House is located on Via della Domus Aurea, just a stone’s throw from the Colosseum. The nearest metro stop is Colosseo.

Hop-on, hop-off tourist buses also stop near the site.

Domus Aurea Opening Hours

Tours are available on Fridays and Saturdays from 9 AM to 5 PM. The rest of the week, the Domus Aurea is closed to the public to allow archaeologists to focus on their work.

Guided Tours

⚠️ Attention! The Domus Aurea is still an active archaeological site. Guided tours are mandatory, and tickets must be reserved in advance.

You can book your visit online here.

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Credits
Fred Romero | Carole Raddato | Carole Raddato | François Spilliaert