The Trastevere District in Rome

Nestled on the west bank of the Tiber, Trastevere is one of Captain Ulysses’ favourites in Rome.

Follow the guide!

A Quick Overview of Trastevere

To explore Trastevere, head to the western bank of the Tiber River, just south of Vatican City.

The district gets its name from the Latin “Transtiberim,” which means “across the Tiber.”

As the name suggests, Trastevere is steeped in history. Under Emperor Augustus (1^st century B.C.), it was already one of Rome’s 14 districts and later became part of the city’s defense system with the construction of the Aurelian Walls in the 3^rd century A.D.

Not long after, Trastevere became home to some of Rome’s oldest Christian churches, while many of its narrow, colorful streets and charming piazzas date back to the Middle Ages.

Historically a multicultural and working-class district—with Jewish and Syrian communities settling here in ancient times—Trastevere has always maintained a unique identity, and its residents, the Trasteverini, are fiercely proud of their roots!

Though it has grown more touristy and gentrified in recent years, especially around Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the quieter streets near the Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere still retain a more authentic, peaceful charm.

Exploring Trastevere

Of all Rome’s neighborhoods, Trastevere is perhaps the best for aimless wandering.
Don’t hesitate to stash your map or phone in your bag and simply get lost in the district’s maze of streets at your own pace.

That said, keep an eye on your map from time to time so you don’t miss Trastevere’s must-see landmarks!

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

One of Trastevere’s most iconic spots, Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere is the historic heart of the neighborhood. It’s named after the beautiful Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere, which stands proudly in the square.

Don’t miss the square’s fountain either—it’s one of the oldest in Rome! The fountain’s current form is thanks to the 17^th-century architect Carlo Fontana, who restored it.

The Palazzo San Callisto (St. Calixtus), located next to the basilica and built in the 17^th century, is also worth a visit.

The square and its surrounding streets are packed with bars, boutiques, and restaurants frequented by both locals and tourists alike.

Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

The Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is undoubtedly the crown jewel of the district.

Built in the 3^rd century A.D. under Pope Callixtus I, this basilica is believed to be the first Christian church in Rome that was open to the public.

Over the centuries, it has been restored several times, most notably in the 12^th century, when the famous mosaics that adorn its walls were added. The church’s iconic Ionic and Corinthian columns were repurposed from the Baths of Caracalla during this same period.

Other highlights include its coffered ceiling, Cosmatesque floor, and the Chapel of Avila, all worth taking the time to admire.

Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere

The Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere is another iconic landmark of the neighborhood. Built in the 5^th century, the basilica is said to stand on the exact spot where St. Cecilia, a Christian martyr who refused to renounce her faith, lived.

Her remains, originally buried in the Catacombs of San Callisto on the Via Antica, were transferred to the basilica in 820.

With its mix of architectural styles, the basilica reflects the many changes it has undergone over the centuries.

Be sure to visit the lovely courtyard in front of the church,
and take a look at the Cosmatesque floor, the Gothic canopy, and the statue of St. Cecilia by Stefano Maderno. Don’t forget the famous fresco of the Last Judgment by Pietro Cavallini, dating from the 13^th century.

Villa Farnesina

Located along the banks of the Tiber, Villa Farnesina is a magnificent Renaissance palace, whose walls are adorned with frescoes by Italian masters like Raphael, Baldassare Peruzzi, and Giovanni Antonio Bazzi (better known as Il Sodoma).

Built between 1505 and 1511, it was designed by the architect Baldassare Peruzzi.

A visit to Villa Farnesina is a must for lovers of art and history!

To find out more, take a look at Captain Ulysses’ detailed article on Villa Farnesina.

The Janiculum Hill (Gianicolo)

Rising above Trastevere’s narrow streets, Janiculum Hill offers breathtaking views over the city of Rome.

Known as the “eighth hill of Rome,”—a nod to the city’s seven historic hills, the most famous of which is the Palatine—Janiculum is associated with the Latin god Janus and marks the boundary between Rome and the Vatican.^.

The hill is closely tied to the story of General Giuseppe Garibaldi and his wife, Anita Garibaldi, both of whom have statues at the summit. Why? In 1849, during the First Italian War of Independence, Garibaldi managed to hold out against the French army on this very hill for several weeks, even though his forces were vastly outnumbered.

Rome’s Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico di Roma)

Also located on the slopes of Janiculum, Rome’s Botanical Garden occupies what was once the park of Villa Corsini.

Spanning 12 hectares, the garden is home to over 3,000 plant species.

While it may not be a must-see, it’s a lovely spot for botany enthusiasts.

Trastevere Flea Market

Every Sunday morning until 2 p.m., Trastevere hosts Rome’s largest flea market.

It’s a great chance to explore another side of the city and experience local life in the Eternal City.

You’ll find everything from antiques and furniture to clothes and knockoff goods.

To find the market, head to the southern part of Trastevere, near Porta Portese.

Trastevere by Night

There’s no secret here: Trastevere is a paradise for food lovers!
As evening falls, the neighborhood fills with Romans and tourists alike, gathering for a good glass of wine and delicious local charcuterie.

With a wide selection of restaurants, bars, and trattorias, you’re sure to find something to your taste.

Pro tip: To avoid tourist traps, look for restaurants filled with Italians!

Practical Information

Getting to Trastevere

Trastevere is located on the western bank of the Tiber River, south of Vatican City.
Unfortunately, the neighborhood isn’t very well connected by the metro, so you’ll need to walk or opt for buses or trams.

Trastevere is served by bus lines 23, 280, and 780, as well as tram line 8.

Guided Tours of Trastevere

If your budget allows, consider a guided tour of Villa Farnesina and Trastevere. Find out more here.

Want to dive deeper into Trastevere’s rich history? Captain Ulysses highly recommends this guided tour of the neighborhood (available in several languages).

And for food lovers, there’s also a fantastic food tour that offers great value for money, giving you the chance to discover Trastevere’s culinary wonders (in English).

Avoid long lines: book your tickets and tours for Rome!

Credits
Mario Sánchez Prada | Caribb | Fineas Anton | Quaritsch Photography