Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome

Nestled on the Esquiline Hill, Santa Maria Maggiore (the Basilica of Saint Mary Major) is the largest church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary and one of the four major basilicas of the Eternal City.

Follow the guide!

A Brief history of Santa Maria Maggiore

The Legend of Santa Maria Maggiore

According to legend, on the night of August 4-5, 356, the Virgin Mary appeared in a dream to Pope Liberius and a wealthy Roman named John. The Virgin asked them to build a sanctuary in her honor at a location she would indicate. The next morning, the Pope and John found that snow had miraculously fallen on the Esquiline Hill—in the middle of August!

Pope Liberius then ordered the construction of a Marian church, financed by John.

The True History of Santa Maria Maggiore

As charming as the legend is, history tells a slightly different tale.

The construction of Santa Maria Maggiore began in the 5^th century, under Pope Sixtus III, following the Council of Ephesus, which declared Mary as Theotokos, or “Mother of God.”

Originally, the basilica followed a simple paleo-Christian basilica design, typical of late Roman architecture. Over the centuries, it underwent several renovations and expansions, including the addition of the apse, transept, and bell tower in the 13^th century, the construction of chapels in the 16^th and 17^th centuries, and the completion of a Baroque façade in the 18^th century.

Today, the Basilica of Saint Mary Major is an architectural patchwork, blending elements of paleo-Christian, Romanesque, Renaissance, and Baroque styles.

Visiting Santa Maria Maggiore

The Exterior of the Basilica

Before stepping inside, take a moment to admire the impressive exterior. The medieval Romanesque-style campanile is the tallest in Rome.

The grand façade of the basilica features a stunning loggia with three arcades adorned with mosaics.

There are five entrances, one of which is the Holy Door on the left. Each of the four major basilicas has a Holy Door, which is only opened by the Pope (or a Cardinal) once every 25 years to mark the beginning of the Holy Year.

The Corinthian column on the square in front of the basilica originally came from the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine (located in the Roman Forum) and was moved here under Pope Paul V in the early 17^th century.

Additionally, an obelisk can be found on the Esquiline Hill behind the basilica, originally standing at the entrance of the Mausoleum of Augustus.

The Three Naves

The central nave is separated from the two side naves by rows of marble and granite Ionic columns, dating back to the basilica’s original construction.

Look up, and you’ll spot a frieze and 5^th-century mosaic panels above the columns, depicting biblical scenes on a golden background. The triumphal arch between the nave and transept is also adorned with 1,500-year-old mosaics.

While you’re looking up, take note of the incredible coffered ceiling, a Renaissance masterpiece. It is said to have been decorated with gold brought back from Christopher Columbus’ expedition to the Americas, a gift from Queen Isabella of Spain.

Before leaving the nave, don’t miss the intricate cosmatesque marble flooring, a medieval style of inlaid stonework, dating from the 12^th century.

The Apse

Supported by red porphyry columns, the baldachin shelters the high altar, which holds relics of the Holy Crib (or Manger) in a reliquary made by Luigi Valadier in the 19^th century.

Above the high altar, you’ll find a stunning medieval mosaic depicting the Coronation of the Virgin, created by Jacopo Torriti at the end of the 13^th century.

The Sistine Chapel

Not to be confused with the renowned Sistine Chapel located in the Vatican, this Sistine Chapel is one of the two main chapels within the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Designed by the architect Domenico Fontana and lavishly adorned with frescoes and statues, it houses the tomb of Pope Sixtus V. The remains of Pope Pius V also rest in this chapel.

At the entrance (outside the chapel), take note of the Bernini family tombstone. It is here that the legendary Gian Lorenzo Bernini, also known as Il Bernini, is buried (you can see some of his breathtaking sculptures at the Villa Borghese – another must-visit!).

The Pauline Chapel

The Pauline Chapel (or Paolina in Italian) is named after Pauline Bonaparte, who rests here alongside other distinguished members of the Borghese family, including Pope Paul V. The remains of Pope Clement VIII are also housed in this chapel.

Built in 1611 by Flaminio Ponzio, the Pauline Chapel mirrors the layout of the Sistine Chapel, located on the opposite side of the nave.

Inside, you’ll find the revered Salus Populi Romani, a Byzantine icon of the Virgin and Child, brought to Rome in the 6^th century.

The Museum Area (Paid Access)

While most of the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore is free to visit, there are some areas that require a ticket. These include:

The Liberian Historical Museum

Here, visitors can explore the Treasures of Santa Maria Maggiore, including liturgical objects (chalices, reliquaries) and works of art by masters such as Sodoma, Beccafumi, and Baldassare Croce.

The Loggia, Papal Hall, and Bernini’s Staircase

This section offers a behind-the-scenes look at the basilica. The spiral staircase, designed by the famed sculptor Bernini, represents the journey from Earth to Heaven and is truly a sight to behold.

The Archaeological Site

Beneath the basilica lies an impressive archaeological complex dating back to the imperial era, showcasing the rich historical layers of this ancient site.

Practical Information

Getting to Santa Maria Maggiore

The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore is located on the Esquiline Hill, just a short walk from Termini Station.

The nearest metro station is Termini (lines A and B), and buses 16, 70, 71, and 714 also stop nearby.

Opening Hours of Santa Maria Maggiore

The Basilica is open daily from 7 AM to 7 PM (last entry at 6:30 PM). The museum area is open from 9:30 AM to 6 PM (last entry at 5:30 PM).

Admission Fees

Entry to the basilica is free. However, if you wish to access the dome and the museum area (including the Liberian Historical Museum, the loggia, the Papal Hall, Bernini’s Staircase, and the archaeological site), there is a €12 fee.

To skip the lines, it’s a good idea to book your tickets in advance: Access to the dome, loggia, Papal Hall, and Bernini’s Staircase.

Avoid the lines: Book your tickets and tours in Rome in advance!

Credits
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